I have always been more of a nature-y girl rather than a city girl preferring the beach or climbing a tree to the hustle and bustle of the city so living in Naoribi has been a bit daunting. Every weekend we have managed thus far to get out of Nairobi if for just a day to experience a different side of Africa- the sweeping planes, blazing sun, and exotic animals. I know that this is not necessarily “the real Africa” but it is definitely the Africa that novels and movies attempt to portray more often than not. The first weekend we arrived we were in Naivasha, a horiticulture community with zebras and monkeys, the second weekend we went to the Giraffe Center in Karen with lush trees, a nature walk, and kissing giraffes, and the third weekend we went on a Safari Walk in Nairobi National Park and spent an hour with baby, orphaned elephants. This past weekend, however, we had the most stereotypyical African adventures- we went on a three day safari in Masa Mara. For someone getting frustrated with the traffic and craziness of the matatus, the dirt and grime of a busy city, and the crowds of people constantly moving through Nairobi, it was a breath of fresh air.
Going on a safari, I really did not know what to expect- the only thing that I could think of was whether or not it would be similar to the Lion King and crazily enough-it kind of was. As soon as we entered the park we saw gazelles and zebras grazing next to each other with birds flying overhead- all it needed was a monkey holding up a baby lion on a giant rock and it would have been perfect. On our first trip out we saw giraffes, a lone elephant, meerkats, the famous dik-diks, and warthogs. After a few hours in the Mara we finally went back to our camp, and became acquainted to our hybrid tent/cabin (which had amazing hot water). After a satisfying meal we met the other wazungu at the camp- two ardorable, elderly Dutch men who funnily enough recongnized me from Rhapta Road and a guy from Chicago. It was peaceful chilling there- me with my coke and everyone else with their Tuskers listening to the monkeys, talking, and watching the glow of the fire of the Maasai whose job it was to guard us from the lions.
After getting up insanely early we went back into the park to see the sunrise over the reserve. One of our first major finds was three male lions- two of whom eventually picked a fight with the littler one. Driving farther and farther into the Mara we passed by a tree that held the remains of a leopard’s kill and stumbled upon a rhino entering into the brush (there are only five in the entire reserve). On top of these discoveries, we saw more antelope, gazelle, warthogs, birds, and monkeys. After a very late breakfast and a much needed bathroom break we showered, napped, and then spent the early afternoon laying in the sun reading our respective books about development and peace and conflict. Early that evening we went back to Masa Mara and came upon a female lioness basking in the sun and a family of elephants who did their best to hide behind a clump of trees.
The mot striking memory of that day was when we found ourselves in the presence of a cheetah teaching her two cubs how to hunt. The drivers have a radio that they use to signal to other vans when they saw something of significance and there were dozens of vans of wazungu circled around this poor cheetah waiting for it to make the big kill. There was something about watching and eventually disturbing the cheetah’s hunt that made me reflect on the role of a tourist in such a country. Heretofore I had done my best to remain as inconspicuous as my blond hair and pale skin makes possible but in this instance, vans were inching upon the mother trying to hunt and coming between her and her prey. I felt incredibly superfluous and very much like an intrusive outsider. In the end, the cheetah did not make her kill that night but when we returned the next morning we did see her bring down a gazelle and feed it to her cubs. In the end it was an experience that was humbling and awe inspiring but I am still not sure if it was worth the cost.
All in all, the safari was an amazing way to celebrate my first month in Kenya. I became incredibly tan, saw animals that I have only seen in zoos or on television, and was lucky enough to spend time getting to know the amazing people in my program. As stereotypically toursity as it was- it will be an experience that I remember for the rest of my life.
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